The Winter Way 

The Winter Way is an alternative way to enter Galician land while on pilgrimage to Santiago. Pilgrims used to avoid the punishing ascension up to the snowed peaks of O Cebreiro, especially in winter. They opted for a route already discovered by the Romans following the low-height paths running across the basin of the River Sil. From Ponferrada (León), they went past the Ribeira Sacra and the lands crossed by the River Deza in Pontevedra, where then they joined the southeastern route up to Santiago.

ITINERARY / CULTURE
The roots of the Winter Way hark back to a Roman via that joined the Roman gold-mining site of Las Médulas with the Via XVIII of the Antonine Itinerary. It followed the rich gold-bearing basin of the Sil, across southern Lugo, and the Roman tunnel of Montefurado. It then went on towards the flatlands of Lemos and Chantada, crossing the beds of the rivers Lor, Cabe and Miño along their Roman bridges, such as the one still standing in Barxa de Lor. At any rate, it was customary to cross the river by boat.

The route climbed up from Chantada to the mountain range of O Faro, in whose chapel pilgrims could ask for the favour of Our Lady to help them reach Santiago, after crossing the lands of the Deza, joining the Southeastern Way at Lalín (A Laxe).

The presence of the Knight Templars at the castle of Cornatel, in the area of El Bierzo, and of the Kinghts Hospitaller in Novaes (Quiroga), whose land grants lay by the pilgrimage routes, bear witness to the importance of this way during the Middle Ages. The monasteries scattered along the route contributed to its fixation, especially along the unparalleled Ribeira Sacra, where they gave their support as hospices. The village of Monforte de Lemos, at the mythical castro Dactonio, also played an essential role. 

Monforte developed a very important artistic and historical heritage linked to the dinasty of the Castros, Counts of Lemos. Within the walled compound of San Vicente do Pino, besides the monastery, the Count’s palace stands, as well as the tower keep, which hosts a Parador Nacional de Turismo (high-class tourist hotels) since year 2000. No less spectacular is the Colegio del Cardenal –the Galician Escorial-, which lodges paintings by such illustrious artists as El Greco, and the convent of the Poor Clares, which is the venue for one of the most important religious art museums in Spain.

A WAY WITH NO FOOTPRINTS
The Winter Way leaves no one indifferent. It crosses areas of exceptional natural and artistic value. At the beginning, the pilgrim will find the incomparable landscape of Las Médulas, World Heritage Site (1997), whose reddish pinnacles, standing out from among the chestnut trees, are the reminder of the largest Roman open pit goldmine in Spain.

Not less stunning is the landscape when entering Galicia, with the way following the River Sil, leaving to the right the mountains of A Enciña da Lastra, Site of Community Importance (SCI) since year 2000.

Once we have arrived at the Ribeira Sacra, a European Cultural Itinerary since 2004, the pilgrim should venture along the River Sil Canyons. From their impressive viewpoints it is possible to behold the vineyard terraces hanging over the river banks, offering a view of unique beauty to the onlooker. Lastly, a magic path runs among Romanesque temples which fade into the intense green landscape of this holy land.

Once at the mythical mountain range of O Faro, it is impossible not to become dazzled by a view that comprises the four Galician provinces. From the top and by the chapel, Santiago will seem to be nearer, scraping the very sky ceiling.   

PREPARE YOUR JOURNEY
The pilgrim seeking tranquillity will find the Winter Way to be a loyal companion which will guide them, among other environments, along silent rivers making their way under the mountains. This itinerary is still widely unknown; hence, it is not so intensely trodden as other historical routes to Santiago.

Although for the time being it lacks a large hostel network –though it already boasts municipality-run hostels in Vilamartín, Xagoaza (O Barco) and Quiroga-, housing is easily obtained across its great network of hotels and cottages, rounded off by the Parador de Turismo of Monforte.

Some stretches of the way may be challenging and the walker should be aware of them, such as the ways up and down the Codos de Belesar or the mountain of O Faro. Those difficulties can be overcome owing to the beauty of the surrounding landscape. There are also several refreshing river areas along the way which grant the much needed rest, such as the piers of O Barco, Vilamartín, A Rúa, Quiroga, San Clodio, Barxa de Lor, A Pobra de Brollón, Monforte de Lemos, Belesar and Chantada.