The Portuguese Way along the Coast 

The Portuguese Way along the Coast was followed by those who crossed the River Miño next to its mouth and, either cutting across the mountain clusters towering before their eyes, or descending to A Guarda and then following the way up by the river side, headed towards Vigo to connect, later on, at Redondela, with the other Portuguese Way. And here is an advantage: Though this way is no newcomer, it has just been officially acknowledged. Or in other words, it is a new itinerary to be discovered.

ITINERARY / NATURE
There were many reasons for which the Portuguese pilgrims would not cross the River Miño at Tui, as it was customary, and opt to do it at other points. It might be due to a sudden chance or the desire to avoid the frontier town itself. Thus, it was many those who for one reason or another would cross the stream at Goián, where groups would quickly form, or at A Guarda, a bit farther down to the south. And there the first dilemma usually arises: Either you follow the coastline or you go across the inner lands. The latter option entails the crossing of wild mountain ranges with beautiful landscapes and winding up in Vigo.

Opting for following the coastline implies heading towards the west at the beginning –i.e. in parallel to the river- to reach the huge and most beautiful estuary of the River Miño. There stands also Mount Santa Tegra, a large viewpoint boasting an excavated castro and considered the most spectacular pre-historic village in Galicia. And down to the south lies A Guarda, a port which not even pirates would dare entering, or so it is said. Though be it as it might, the town’s quays grant refuge nowadays to its many fishing boats. Here is a fun fact: The local delicacy is lobster, no less -serious business.

The coastland, very craggy and intensely wave-beaten, points to the north. And hence the pilgrim arrives in Oia and its monastery right by the sea, with its minute and cosy port.  After making a turn at Cape Silleiro, the way follows along a more sheltered territory. It is the start of Vigo’s ría (a bay), which lodges the city of the same name. Prior to it, the way goes past the port town of Baiona and its castle, today a parador.

A WAY WITH NO FOOTPRINTS
Pilgrims are and always have been aware people, respectful of the environment and other people’s properties. They make use of trash containers and they do not hesitate to carry their own wastes until they find one (obviously, all towns along the route have them). The Way belongs to everyone and everyone must help to preserve it.

In this case, the legal protection enjoyed by some spaces along this Way is easily understandable at first sight. Thus, the stretch running in parallel to the River Miño is a Site of Community Importance (SCI) and a Special Protection Zone due its rich birdlife and, precisely, at Salcidos –a little before arriving at A Guarda-, it is possible to access a bird observatory, easily recognizable form afar, and hence enjoy with the watching of thousands of birds.

Once within the area of Vigo's ría, it is possible to see the Cíes Islands, the heart of the Illas Atlánticas National Park, and closer to land, the Estellas Islands, another spotless, pristine SCI without any buildings on it. On the mainland, and in front of the latter, lies a third SCI, A Ramallosa -a river mouth boasting large sandbanks which are particularly stunning when the tide is low.

PREPARE YOUR JOURNEY
As this Portuguese Way along the Coast is a newcomer to the world of official acknowledgement – though, undoubtedly, it already existed from the beginning of the pilgrimages-, the public hostel network is still being devised. This circumstance forces a careful planning of the journey, especially regarding where to sleep prior to arriving in Redondela, where this way connects to the other Portuguese Way --the one starting in Tui.

If following the coastline, one can be completely sure to feel the marine breeze on their face. Some people love to walk in slightly windy conditions. Those with different inclinations should leave the Atlantic and take the way across the mountains of Argallo and Groba instead, where the landscape is completely different and, as logic dictates, essentially rough and rocky –a typical mountain image-, inhabited by wild horses which turn away whenever they see someone approach them from afar.

On a different topic, mountain boots are preferable to sneakers or sandals. A staff to help us on our walk is always welcome, and do not forget the canteen at home.